Santiago de Compostela

by Mandy Weger on November 2, 2011

On Monday, Mike and I ventured about an hour away to Santiago de Compostela, which is the capitol city of our region, Galicia. It is also, according to Wikipedia, a Holy city where pilgrims flock from around the world. There’s even a series of trails called The Way of St. James (or El Camino de Santiago) that travels hundreds of miles for pilgrims to walk their way to Santiago.

We drove there and didn’t do the whole pilgrim thing.

{Disclaimer: I am not Catholic or religious, so I’m looking at this church from a purely tourist-attraction standpoint, not a religious one}

The day was pretty bleak and rainy, and I wore just about the worst outfit ever for walking around a wet city: a maxi dress that I had to hold up constantly so it wouldn’t drag the ground. I thought wearing a dress was pretty much a requirement for these things out of respect, but of course people were in jeans and such when we got there. Oh well.

I still looked awesome.

The outside of the church was pretty grimy, I must admit. I thought that a church that was considered such an attraction would be better cared for/cleaned. It was still very impressive though, as was the square surrounding it.

Every once in awhile, we could hear great shouts from Pilgrims who had made it into the square after their long journey (they must travel 100 km on foot or 200km on bike in order for them to earn the Compostela certificate, which means that they’re super awesome pilgrims, I think). It was so interesting to see the joy on these peoples’ faces as they completed their long journey–group hugs, kissing the ground, taking photos, bending down, winded because I’m sure they had to have sped up in the home stretch.

I might look like I’m pouting about the rain, but I’m really just observing the square. And maybe pouting about the rain a little bit. But isn’t my umbrella cute? It has sheep all in a line, and then the blue guy is a wolf in sheeps’ skin. hehe, it’s kinda evil.

Inside, the long aisle to the pulpit shows a shiny gold room of wonderment. It was an incredible contrast to the rest of the church, which was very gothic and grey.

There were little alcoves all around the church with different stories depicted.

The ceiling was very cool–this picture doesn’t do it justice.

After we walked around the perimeter of the church, we noticed that there was a long, long line forming for something. It looked like everyone got to go into the golden pulpit, so Mike and I stood in this long, long line:

It wound all the way around the center of the church. When we got to the doorway where we were supposed to enter this mystery attraction (well, it was a mystery to us, but other people probably knew what they’d be seeing) there was a sign saying no photographs. There was even a priest stationed inside this area to enforce the rule, so I couldn’t sneak any in.

I’ll let you in on what it was though: It was about a 3′x3′ space that was elaborately decorated in gold, and in the middle of the space there was a Jesus statue, his face pointed out toward the pulpit. It seemed like the thing to do when you got up to him was to kiss the back of his head. We didn’t do that though, probably to the extreme disapproval of the priest sitting there, and walked out of the 3 foot space. Mike said “I’ll bet you’re disappointed.” Haha, I was. I totally thought that we’d get access to the golden pulpit. Notsomuch.

After the Jesus statue, we went into a little room with a silver casket that is supposed to represent Saint James and two of his disciples: Saint Theodorus and Saint Athanasius.

Okay, so…I guess I’m just not one of those people who’s super impressed by churches. The Duomo was interesting when we went there, and Barcelona’s Sagrada Familia was ridiculous, though we didn’t want to pay the 30 Euro each to get in. We admired from the outside.

I think that I appreciate the buildings as something beautiful and architecturally interesting, but it pretty much stops there. Mike, who has seen many churches during his travels, has said that this church didn’t make his top five, so I suppose I’d only recommend going to check it out if it means something to you and your religion.

Do you like to see old churches when you travel? What’s the most impressive church you’ve seen?

  • http://www.fearlesslyfree.com Jessica

    Your umbrella is awesome!  And that church is super dirty.  We went to a ton of churches in Spain and I felt like they were all dirty, especially those golden rooms.  They were always COVERED in dust and cobwebs.  Gross.  My favorite church is Sagrada Familia.  I was lucky that it was La Semana Santa when I was there, so they let students in for 4 Euro.  

    [Reply]

  • Lori Kay Coup

    Seeing old churches when we travel is at the top of our lists. So awesome. Especially in Europe. And, oh. em. gee. Sagrada Familia is my favorite. It is mind blowing, right? 

    Random question for you (maybe an up-and-coming blog post topic?): How do you like the food so far when eating out in Spain? This one was on of the hardest things to get used to for me. I grew to love olives, olive oil and red wine more than I ever thought I would. The pizza is totally weird – wait ’till you see someone put mayo on a slice. You have to try churros. Other than that – the food was just not for my palate. I hope you find it different, but I would love to hear your thoughts on it! 
    If you have time you should try to make it to see the AMAZING reservoir in Zahara. Also – if you want a private tour of a family owned/run olive press, Moline Viniculo (?) is the place to go. Sorry, I could go on for hours. I’m so glad you are having a good time exploring. The country is amazing :)

    [Reply]

  • http://twitter.com/loverenovations Amanda

    So beautiful! I’m so jealous of all the amazing things you get to see while you’re there!!

    [Reply]

  • http://twitter.com/_whatsarahsaid_ Sarah

    Wow…what amazing architecture. I’m not super religious either but I do appreciate a big old church! ;) So glad you’re able to get out and explore your new home! :)

    [Reply]

  • http://twitter.com/ayestria Ayesha Ali

    I agree that your umbrella is adorable and clever. I studied history and did a lot of study on the Muslim, Jewish, and Catholic relationship and this church played a huge part. I would love to visit it, but I will agree with you. I am not super into buildings and architecture unless the story behind it is unique.

    I have seen so many European churches that I could never look at one again and be happy, but my favorite church in Europe is St. Mark’s in Venice. My then boyfriend and I got a tip to try and be in the center of the church by 10:30 when the lights are turned on. It was the most beautiful thing I have ever seen! I  even cried. The lights turn on over the mosaics slowly, so it feels like the sun is rising in the room, and all the colors and golds from the mosaics become bright. It really is a treat to see, and even if you’ve already been, I recommend it specifically for that sight.

    [Reply]

  • http://opinionationblog.blogspot.com Grace

    The problem with churches for me is that they tend to all blend in to one another: the first one is SO cool and amazing, but by the time you are on #10, you’d rather just have some  coffee. When I first learned this about myself (in Italy), it was sort of disappointing, since it  seemed like I should have more stamina and interest in ancient religious sites. Oh well.

    In Spain, I did love the cathedral in Seville; if you have a chance, it’s definitely worth a visit. (It’s also a UNESCO world heritage site if you care about that sort of thing.) 

    [Reply]

  • Anonymous

    Any family trip back to England included A LOT of trips to various cathedrals for dad. I was never terribly in to it – I could appreciate it all in about 15 minutes, and he always wanted to spend hours. :)

    [Reply]

  • http://asprinkleofadventure.com kelly

    Hi! I’ve been following your blog since you wrote for Weddingbee.  I just wanted to say that I think it’s so great that you’re living abroad and are able to visit all those places.  I love to travel and I’m really enjoying reading about your adventures abroad. 

    [Reply]

  • http://www.glitterandganache.com glitter & ganache/Tabitha

    I am still (perpetually) jealous of your travels. But also jealous of that rain.
    It’s November 2nd and hot, hot, hot here in LA!
    As someone else commented, I’m also curious about the food?
    Always one of my favorite parts of travelling! :)

    [Reply]

  • http://hemborgwife.wordpress.com/ hemborgwife

    How fun a day trip! That is one thing I love about living in Europe is the day trips sound so much more exciting rather then a place you went a ton of times as a kid or something!

    I think my favorite church visiting experience was Canterbury Cathedral, to be in a church where a murder had taken place was just very intriguing to me especially since I visited it at 15!

    [Reply]

Previous post:

Next post: